The patent flour from different varieties of wheat can then be sold separately or blended with other flour to produce the bags of bread, all-purpose, pastry, self-rising, and cake flours available on supermarket shelves, which can last up to eight months stored at room temperature, up to one year if refrigerated, and up to two years if frozen. The last two streams create lower quality flour—which the industry calls "clear"—comprised of the outer part of the endosperm.
Clear flour is commonly added to whole grain and rye breads to which it adds strength and where its drab color can be hidden and used in the production of vital wheat gluten. Freshly milled flour has a yellowish tint and "makes a weak gluten, a slack dough, and a dense loaf," according to Harold McGee, author of On Food and Cooking.
At the turn of the 20th century, commercial flour mills sought to increase production by using maturing and bleaching agents to shorten that aging process; commercial mills, like Gold Medal, Pillsbury, and White Lily, chemically treat some flours to achieve the effects of flour-aging in just two days. Potassium bromate, a maturing agent, was first used to oxidize the glutenin proteins and improve the elasticity of dough.
In many countries, potassium bromate is now banned as a food additive due to concerns over its safety for human consumption. To replicate the whitening process, mills turn to benzoyl peroxide or chlorine gas.
Benzoyl peroxide which is more commonly known as a treatment for acne is used in bread, all-purpose, cake, and pastry flours since it has no effect on their pH or their starch and protein behaviors; its effect is purely aesthetic just like its effect on acne! Chlorine gas is used exclusively in cake flour. In addition to whitening, the process of chlorination improves the baking properties of soft wheat flour by weakening gluten and lowering pH—which helps to produce a sweeter flavor, finer crumb, and a more aerated final product.
You might also notice two other ingredients—enzymes and malted barley flour—when scanning the ingredient list on a bag of flour. The addition of enzymes proteins that can speed up chemical reactions or cause reactions to occur that might not happen otherwise improve yeast fermentation , browning , and extend the shelf life of baked goods and breads. Malted barley flour—sprouted kernels of barley ground into flour—may also be added; it contains amylase, an enzyme that breaks down starches into sugars, which accelerates yeast fermentation.
American farmers grow wheat varieties that are grouped into six major classes. For this reason, hard wheat is best suited for doughs that require a strong gluten network and produce an open, chewy crumb, while soft wheat is typically used for more delicate pastries and cakes. Its low gluten strength works well in chemically-leavened goods like muffins, biscuits, and cookies, all of which have a tight and tender crumb.
You can feel the difference between these flours with your fingers: flour made from hard wheat has a granular feel, while flour made from soft wheat has a powdery texture. Red wheat contains tannins that lend it a slightly bitter, more robust flavor and a reddish color. White wheat, on the other hand, has no tannins white wine, by contrast, just has lower levels than red , giving it a milder flavor and a light color.
Of course, the distinction between red and white wheat is far more relevant in whole grain flours, which contain the bran, than it is in refined flours, in which the bran has removed during processing. Winter wheat is planted in the fall and harvested the following spring or summer; spring wheat is planted in the spring and harvested in late summer.
It's crucial to take protein level into consideration when considering the perfect flour for a recipe. These protein percentages are an indicator of the gluten-potential of any given flour. Gluten, formed when wheat flour is mixed with water, accounts for the structure and texture in baked goods and breads. In general, the higher the protein content, the more gluten the dough can potentially develop.
Although it contains plenty of protein, the presence of sharp, fibrous bran particles affects the final volume of the dough by tearing strands of gluten. High-protein flours perform well in airy, crusty loaves, but can spell disaster for tender biscuits. Low-protein flours lack the protein needed for chewy bagels and are best suited for tender and fluffy cakes. That said, experimentation with different flours can be fun and educational; just know a recipe may not work as expected if you deviate from its specifications.
Grinder Finder is a great tool for sourcing these rarer flours in the US. Milled from hard red wheat, its protein content ranges from percent. Much of the whole wheat flour you find at the supermarket has been processed in a steel roller mill: the three edible parts of the grain are separated, milled, and then recombined to approximate the natural ratio in the wheat kernel. It works well in heartier recipes, like carrot cake , gingerbread , and crackers , where its rich flavor and coarser texture are welcome additions.
It can also be mixed with all-purpose or bread flours to create breads that have a lighter wheat flavor and a less dense crumb. Graham flour, named after Dr. Sylvester Graham, a prominent figure in the early nineteenth century health food movement, is a type of whole wheat flour that has a slightly coarser grind. With its nutty and sweet flavor, it works well in graham crackers and pie doughs. Wait, how can it be white and whole wheat? The amount of protein corresponds to how much gluten is formed when flour comes into contact with water.
In general, you can use AP flour in place of any of these other flours —it won't produce quite the same texture, but it'll be close enough. No flour, no pizza. No pizza, no fun. The main difference between bread flour and all-purpose flour is a matter of protein. Gluten is the stringy strands that give bread dough its stretch and elasticity, and baked bread its characteristic chew.
Kneading dough develops a network of gluten strands that trap air and produce the airy holes characteristic of many breads. You can use bread flour in place of AP flour when you actually want a chewier result—in pizza dough, for instance—but you don't want to use it in place of cake or pastry flour, or in any baked goods that you want to be light and tender.
You may be sensing a theme here with how these flours are labeled. Cake flour is used in cake-making. On the other end of the spectrum from bread flour, cake flour has a lower protein content than all-purpose. It is lower on the Glycemic Index than white flours. When making bread from whole wheat flour you can add in a tablespoon or two of vital wheat gluten which will lighten the texture and promote a good rise.
People who have gluten intolerance have to be careful as to the flours they choose. There are a variety of gluten free flours on the market and they generally need a binding agent, such as other grains; potato flour; or gums, added to make the baked goods hold together.
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